As visitors return to Grindavík amid expected volcanic activity, local safety chief Gunnar Schram shares his insights on the area’s allure and the importance of caution. When asked why people are drawn to Grindavík, which has experienced six eruptions since December, Schram laughs, underscoring the fascination with active volcanoes.
“Many tourists arrive in Iceland without ever having seen lava up close,” he remarks, acknowledging the majestic sight that attracts so many. Although most dangerous areas are off-limits, visitors still venture to Grindavík at their own risk, and children are advised to stay away. He warns, “The ground is still emitting steam; just a meter below the surface, temperatures reach 800°C.” Scientists are closely monitoring the situation, anticipating another eruption in the coming months.
“If it weren’t for the barriers around Grindavík, much of the town would be submerged in lava today,” Schram notes. He adds that even Icelanders, accustomed to nature’s power, find their perspectives changed when they witness a volcano up close. “But for tourists, experiencing these natural wonders in Grindavík must be something extraordinary.”
Despite its appeal, the town, once home to a vibrant community of 3,800 people, has seen only about 50 visitors a day since its reopening. While Iceland’s volcanic landscape is a major draw, recent eruptions have had dire human consequences, in stark contrast to the more tourist-friendly eruption of Fagradalsfjall in 2021.
Tragedy struck earlier this year when Lúðvík Pétursson, 50, went missing while attempting to repair ground cracks, and search efforts were ultimately suspended. When the Observer visited Grindavík earlier, access was limited to visitors with special QR codes scanned at checkpoints, while police and moving vans patrolled the area. Many remaining residents were in the process of relocating amidst unstable buildings, deep fissures in the ground, and signs indicating homes had been abandoned. Masks were once necessary due to the sulfur dioxide fumes, but that guideline is no longer in place.
Today, some local businesses, including the Grindavík Guesthouse, have reopened despite the owners relocating multiple times over the past year. They are promoting the nearby lava fields as a way for visitors to engage with the raw Icelandic landscape, attracting tourists curious about the deserted town and those en route to the famous Blue Lagoon.
The local tourism board reports a consistent flow of visitors since the reopening, although developing volcano tourism poses challenges due to ongoing eruption uncertainty. A local tour operator is beginning guided tours highlighting changes before and after the evacuation, with more anticipated in the future.
Tourist numbers initially dipped, partly attributed to negative media coverage, but have since rebounded, with over 1.7 million visitors to Iceland recorded between January and September 2024. Newly elected Icelandic President Halla Tómasdóttir stressed to the Observer that the country remains open and safe for tourism.
Yet, safety is a primary concern. The Icelandic tourist board cautions that those who ignore official guidelines should not expect rescue. Safety specialist Dagbjartur Brynjarsson warns against “disaster tourism,” noting the perils of social media-driven thrill-seeking. “We’ve seen individuals, mostly foreigners, running across fresh lava and approaching the crater. If something goes wrong, help will not be forthcoming.”
